Bad Things

July 30, 2007

Love is a Dog from Hell

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or a stale Doughnut Plant doughnut from Dean & Dean Deluca. You're biting, but it's too late. 12 hours too late after they first emerged from their oily cribs, warm and perfect and resplendent in a jaw-dropping glaze. Could you have done anything differently? Yes, you could have woken up at the appointed hour and speedily taken the F train to Delancey to devour them when they were fresh. When they were doughnut angels. But you didn't. Because you are slow and a logistical cripple. You were snoozing to NPR's Morning Edition and dreaming about Cheney resigning in front of a committee of broccoli people when you should have been out of the shower, putting on Russian Red lipstick and buckling up those oxford heels. And now you are eating an antiquated yeast lump for dinner while everyone else has moved on to their final meal of the day, following the oysters and champagne. And soon there will be an 86 raid and they'll sneak out laughing, fall into a taxi and teeter home, sleepy and drunk. (hiccup) And you'll still be there in your blue jeans and your fake sailor stripes, many years tardy, parched from your once pretty doughnut.

Doughnut Plant
379 Grand St. (at Norfolk)
212.505.3700
open 6:30 a.m.
also available substandard at various locations throughout the city

May 25, 2007

These are not my beautiful ramps (and other failures)

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1) Don't mess with nice ramps (aka don't try and cook after one of those black hole naps where you can't even hear your music blasting.)

I took this pretty bouquet of ramps and made a version of the ramp spaghetti on epicurious and added some grilled squid. Instead of blanching the ramps like the recipe suggested, I thought I would be clever and throw them on Jesse and Paul's grill. The results were CATASTROPHE. Too much ramp, too much mesquite (I didn't  think either of those those were possible), too much oil, too much recklessness on my part (I was too hungry). The whole thing was vaguely edible and specifically unsavory. Next time, I will try sauteeing the ramps and leave them alone and make a romesco sauce for them a la Casa Mono. If I try and make the pasta again, I would use less ramps and add some pine nuts or almond and tomato into the food processor.

But, the grilled squid was a true delight. The mesquite really insinuates itself into that rubbery flesh beautifully. Chop the squid into rectangles that are about 4 inches long and score it with a knife, making diagonal lines on one side. Marinate it with a little olive oil, garlic, salt, pepper and lemon and thread the pieces onto skewers. Throw it on the grill until they are no longer translucent.  Now, go try it and spread the gospel of squid BBQ. Back to the list of failures:

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2) Don't buy chicken from the supermarket half frozen and then make hurried attempts to defrost it in the microwave and then go and have a 10 minute conversation with someone and then realize that the chicken has been zapped into a rubberballsculptureno.2opus10, and then be ambivalent about whether you want to pan fry the chicken or follow the recipe and braise it, so that your chicken feels like it is the kid in Kramer Vs. Kramer, and then try and actually eat it.

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3) Don't buy a lamb arm shoulder chop because it's $6.99/lb as opposed to the  $17/lb lamb rib chop and then try and cook with it as if it was expensive. Look at all those fine muscles in that shoulder converging on each other. It's a nice anatomical study but not good for eating as a STEAK. Okay, it was flavorful, but the chewing experience was not right. It was smothered in anchovy butter and after a while I was thinking of fish and muscles and chew and gross and not delicious lamb. Generally, shoulder chops are meant for cooking down into stews and such for hours on end, but I just ignored that part. You will see a post from me on a good anchovy butter recipe soon but this wasn't it.

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4) Don't eat at a sushi place that serves bowling ball sized sushi, where you have to practically cut it with a knife and fork. Sushi pieces are meant to fit in your mouth all at once. Mr. Yasuda is rumored to survey  your jaw when you walk into his place, so that he makes the perfect size for you. If that's true, that's a bit much, but you get the idea.

That concludes my noteworthy list of food failures, spanning from February 01, 2007 through May 25, 2007.

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