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February 2009

February 25, 2009

Spicy, Sour and Sweet: Salmon, Tamarind and Pineapple Soup

&;&;&; One of my favorite parts of everyday Vietnamese food is the giant communal bowl of soup that adorns each meal. You can eat some soup during any part of the meal, which I tend to do because I like it so much. But usually you spoon some in at the end of the meal, to clean your palate, quench your thirst and sweep away the remaining grains of rice in your bowl. (I am always telling my mother she needs to drink more water, but she thinks all she needs is a little soup for hydration.) &;&;&; And the Vietnamese make these soups, or canh, with the simplest of ingredients. Just a few tablespoons of meat or dried shrimp, a little fish sauce, a vegetable, a lot of water and some fresh herbs are all you need to make endless variations of it. The soup serves as cheap and tasty way to encourage more rice-eating to a population which typically gets 3/4 of its calories from rice alone. But those flashy southerners in Saigon like to make more complicated soups, because they can, with all that produce at their disposal. Take for example, Canh Chua Ca, a sour fish soup which incorporates fish, tomato, pineapple, bean sprouts, herbs,a celery-like vegetable, taro, sugar and spice.&; It&;s "the abundance of the south in a bowl," Andrea Nguyen said in the Wall Street Journal.&;(I did not realize until recently that Southern Vietnamese food is seen as more bombastic and Northern food is considered&; "plain". My mom cooks both Northern and Southern food, and I was never aware of which dishes were Northern and which were Southern so I never realized the difference. Like many families, my mother&;s was forced to move south to Saigon, when the communists took over Hanoi.) Salmon, Tamarind and Pineapple Soup (Canh Ca Chua)&;I made my own version with the vegetables I had on hand in the fridge. Serves 4 with rice and as part of a meal with other dishes1/2 pound salmon skinned and cut into 2 inch chunks (I skinned the fish after I cooked it because I was using a salmon steak. Catfish is traditionally used but any meaty white fish like bass will also do. Shrimp can be used as well, but that takes only 2 minutes to be cooked.)

3 medium-small sized tomatoes (if you are feeling fussy, you can peel them)

1/2 of a medium sized carrot, sliced thin or minced (1 celery rib is usually used)1 onion diced2 cloves of garlic minced

1/2 cup napa cabbage sliced (bean sprouts are usually used)

4 1/2 cups water3/4 teaspoon tamarind paste1 dried red pepper, or 1-3 chopped and seeded bird eye chilies3/4 cup pineapple cut into triangle shaped pieces about 1 1/2 inches long1 tablespoon and 2 teaspoons of fish sauce (or more to taste)

1/2 teaspoon salt (or more to taste) 1/2 teaspoon sugar ( I like mine lightly sweet but you may want to add a bit more)1 tablespoon lemongrass chopped fine (very optional)chopped cilantro or dill for garnishchopped scallion for garnish(if you can find rau ram, you should add some of this herb on top)black pepperHeat 1 tablespoon vegetable oil in soup pot on medium heat. Saute onion, carrot (or celery), garlic and tomato for a few minutes. Add water, sugar, fish sauce, chili pepper, tamarind paste and salt. Bring to a mellow boil. Taste and add more salt or fish sauce. Add cabbage. One minute later add fish and pineapple. Cook for 5 minutes. Add some black pepper. Garnish with plenty of chopped scallion and cilantro.

February 25, 2009 | Permalink

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February 19, 2009

The Two Potato Meal Involves Oven Roasted French Fries

Apparently, the potato was looked at with suspicion in England until the government encouraged its cultivation after the Revolutionary War food shortages. In Northern Europe, it used to be grown in gardens as an exotic plant.Once cultivation became widespread in Europe, the threat of famine decreased, and there was a population boom:The most dramatic example of the potato&;s potential to alter population patterns occurred in Ireland, where the potato had become a staple by 1800. The Irish population doubled to eight million between 1780 and 1841 — this, without any significant expansion of industry or reform of agricultural techniques beyond the widespread cultivation of the potato. Though Irish landholding practices were primitive in comparison with those of England, the potato&;s high yields allowed even the poorest farmers to produce more healthy food than they needed with scarcely any investment or hard labor. Even children could easily plant, harvest and cook potatoes, which of course required no threshing, curing or grinding. The abundance provided by potatoes greatly decreased infant mortality and encouraged early marriage. Accounts of Irish society recorded by contemporary visitors paint the picture of a people as remarkable for their health as for their lack of sophistication at the dinner table, where potatoes typically supplied appetizer, dinner and dessert. - from History MagazineOven Roasted French Friesadapted from Deborah Madison&;s Vegetarian Cooking for EveryonePreheat oven to 450. Peel 2 russet potatoes (or don&;t peel if they have a nice skin). Slice lengthwise, roughly&; into 1/2 inch width cuts. Toss with olive oil and salt. Place on a lightly greased pan. Roast for about 20 minutes, flipping the pieces over once or twice during cooking so that they brown evenly. Take out and add more salt and pepper. Eat. Try and be productive after this.

February 19, 2009 | Permalink

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February 17, 2009

Chinese Sausage with Sticky Rice and Ginger Scallion Oil

&;If I could eat Chinese sausage every morning with a bowl of sticky rice, I would. Whenever I go home to see my parents my mom is always sweet enough to make some for breakfast. I started making it recently, and am finding it difficult to want to make anything else. It had taken me so long to make it because I was always so blocked with the idea of steaming the darn sticky rice. (But I don&;t have a steamer, and and why does rice need to be steamed and i just can&;t freakin&; deal. Where are my tortillas? ) Luckily, I meditated for a long time and some tension cleared up and my ego suppressed to levels low enough so that I was finally able to proceed with the sticky rice. I went looking for a steamer a couple times but didn&;t find one. Then I remembered Adela using a regular old plate to steam that lovely carp one night. This is why Adela is a doctor who can perform deliveries involving human beings and I still can&;t tie my shoes properly. So here we are. One makeshift steamer: Watching raw rice being steamed into perfect grains is like magic. While the rice is steaming, cut your Chinese sausage. Cut it very thin, on the diagonal, and saute in a little oil. Saute some minced rehydrated shitake as well. This is the type of Chinese sausage I like:

It says "lap xuong tuoi" and is from Westminster, CA which is also known as Little Saigon.&; According to my mom, Vietnamese style Chinese sausage has more wine and less fat. There are a million sausage brands out there and some of them are terrible. If the sausage feels as hard as a rock, that is probably how it will digest. E-mail me for directions on how to find this particular brand.Top the rice with the sausage and the shitake mushrooms. Eat with ginger scallion oil and a little Maggi seasoning. Ginger Scallion Oil adapted from Francis LamMake a batch and have for the rest of the week to add lots of flavor to stir fries or plain rice. This stuff is amazing.1/4 cup corn or peanut oilmaybe 3/4 Tablespoon of ginger3 scallions loosely choppedsalt In a food processor, grind the ginger and scallion. Put in a tall bowl or cup. Add healthy pinches of salt. (It should be enough to salt the 1/4 cup of oil.) Heat oil until just smoking. Pour oil over ginger scallion. Be careful, because it will smoke and sputter when you pour it.Sticky RiceWith sticky rice, soak 1-2 cups of rice overnight (for at least for 2 hours) in cold water. Drain and rinse it. Create a makeshift steamer by balancing a plate on a bowl in a large deep pan/stock pot.Fill the pan with water up to about 2/3 the way of the bowl or as high as you can. Put the rice on the plate. Bring the water to a boil and put the lid on. Steam on a low simmer for 20 minutes. During that time stir a few times to make sure the rice cooks evenly.

February 17, 2009 | Permalink

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February 11, 2009

Winks and Shows Her Thigh at the Chicken Police

&;Chicken has been abused in so many creative ways in this freewheeling country of ours. When I see the piles of dry chicken breasts sitting in deli cases, hard as rocks and slathered with barbecue or teriyaki sauce to conceal their crimes, I get depressed. And every serious food lover knows that ordering chicken in an American/Euro restaurant is just silly because it will surely be the most innocuous dish. I have made my own contributions to chicken mediocrity, having made countless Trader Joe&;s frozen chicken breasts in college.But a well cooked chicken, at the right moment, is something else entirely. So simple, honest and good. A chicken rubbed with lemon and roasted just so on a lazy Sunday evening warms me cynical heart. And chicken steamed to juicy succulence and dipped in a chili ginger sauce - well, my cravings for that never go away for very long. Then there is Vietnamese roast chicken.&; Fish sauce, sugar and garlic all conspire to make a crispy skin even more savory and desirable. The chicken drippings are stirred into the rice (this is called Saigon schmaltz rice). Ga Ro Ti (serves 2 with vegetables and rice)(adapted from Sunday Nite Dinner)1 pound chicken thighs (about 4 chicken thighs) 1 teaspoon granulated sugar

lots of ground black pepper- this is key 1&; tablespoon soy sauce

1&; tablespoon fish sauce

1 1/2&; tablespoons vegetable oil 2 garlic cloves, minced

Trim excess skin and visible fat from chicken thighs using kitchen shears; set aside.

In a medium bowl, whisk together 1 tablespoon of the oil, the sugar, pepper, soy sauce and fish saucel until well combined. Stir in garlic. Add the chicken thighs and evenly distribute the marinade between the thighs. For extra flavor, stuff a little garlic and marinade under the skin. Cover and marinate for 12 to 24 hours in the fridge. (You can marinate for as little as 20 minutes with good results.) Adjust oven rack to middle position; heat oven to 350°F. Heat 1/2 tablespoon oil in a large nonstick, oven-proof skillet over medium high heat. Add the chicken to the skillet skin side down, reduce heat to medium and fry until the skin is deep golden brown, about 6 - 8 minutes. Flip chicken and brown other side for 2-3 minutes; set chicken aside. Don&;t overcrowd chicken during browning; work in batches if necessary.

Drain rendered fat from pan and remove any burnt garlic and set aside to be used for rice; leaving a thin film of oil in the skillet. Return chicken to skillet, skin side up and place into oven. Roast chicken for 30-40 minutes depending on the size of the thighs. To check for doneness, poke the chicken with a knife; the juices should run clear (bone-in thighs 170°F internal temp, boneless thighs 165°F internal temp). Remove chicken from skillet and serve with rice that has some of the chicken fat mixed in.

February 11, 2009 | Permalink

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February 03, 2009

Kebabs with Saffron Butter. Yes, please.

I have been eating a little less meat than normal and more beans, vegetables and fruit. Maybe averaging about a pound of meat per week, including eggs. I make it in half pound portions, which I then supplement with a bunch of vegetables. I know, I know. This all sounds very clinical and boring.But Persian ground meat and onion kebabs with red pepper chutney doesn&;t sound boring, does it? They were eaten so quickly they defeated my goal of spreading them out into several vegetable laden meals. They are from a Saveur recipe. Dense and oniony, they are great with some of this red pepper chutney to add sweetness and lemon. (On a vaguely related note,what is with Fabio from Top Chef&; arguing with the judge as to why he didn&;t put any acid in his salad. He said that the salad had cheese, therefore could not be paired with acid. I mean, seriously?) Persian Ground Meat and Onion Kebabs 1 1/2 - 2 small yellow onion, peeled and food processed (I have recommended a little less onion than the Saveur recipe for my taste.)1 lb. of meat, half ground lamb and half ground beef (I used only beef although I prefer lamb.)1 clove garlic, peeled and finely chopped1 egg, lightly beaten1⁄4 cup dry bread crumbs2 tsp. salt1⁄2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper1⁄2 tsp. ground turmeric1⁄4 tsp. paprika1 pinch saffron threads1 tbsp. butter, meltedGround sumac, optional

1. Drain onions in a sieve set over a bowl for up to 2 hours. (This step is not totally necessary if you are pressed for time. You can just proceed to squeeze the onions.)&; Press onions to release more juice, then transfer to a large bowl, discarding juice. Add ground meat, garlic, egg, bread crumbs, salt, pepper, turmeric, and paprika, and mix well. Divide meat mixture evenly into eighths and shape into 5" cylinders. Slide meat cylinders onto 8 large flat wide metal skewers, molding and flattening meat around skewer to make each kebab about 8" long, 1 1/2" wide, and 1/4" thick (or if not using skewers, shape meat into eight 8" × 1 1/2" × 1/4" rectangles. This is what I did. They kind of came out like an oval blob shape). Set kebabs aside.

2. Preheat a charcoal grill if using metal skewers, or heat a grill pan without sides over medium-high heat for nonskewered meat. If you do not have a grill, like me, then you can turn on your broiler.&; Meanwhile, heat a small skillet over medium heat for 2 minutes. Remove skillet from heat, add saffron, and swirl threads around until lightly toasted, about 30 seconds. Crush saffron with a mortar and pestle, then add 1 tbsp. boiling water and stir in butter.

3. Brush kebabs with saffron butter. Put skewered kebabs over medium-hot coals or on grill pan; if cooking kebabs without skewers, put them on grill pan. Grill kebabs until browned on each side and cooked through, 3–4 minutes per side. Or broil them for 6-8 minutes flipping once. Brush kebabs with remaining saffron butter and sprinkle with a little sumac (if using).

4. Slide kebabs off skewers (if using skewers) and serve with rice and lemon wedges.Roasted Red Pepper Chutney1. Roast a red pepper according to any roasted red pepper instructions like this one.2. Blend the red pepper in a food processor with half a lemon, a drizzle of olive oil, a little sea salt and a teaspoon of parsley. &;

February 03, 2009 | Permalink

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