The Nyonya Diet

Nasi Lemak (above)

Nyonya nyonya nyonya. I need a divorce.  So tempting, only 4 blocks away from work. Like a gambling addict in Vegas whose pulse goes up at the smell of a stale smoky lobby, I crave everything about Nyonya- the faux-bamboo walls, fish tanks and pots of tea.  But most importantly, I crave the Malaysian food - slick with spices, oil and coconut milk.

I have been singularly dedicated to Nyonya this winter. Last year, it was Pho Bang. The winter before that I fattened off of Brisas del Caribe with the help of Dan B., who had his own personal goal of gaining 10 pounds. We would order the roast pork with extra skin, and watch expectantly as the man behind the counter prodded the pork slab, wondering if the skin would be crunchy that day.

But Dan is long gone to the West Coast and so is Brisas, and I found Nyonya a cheery place to sit alone, during the times when the coworkers are hankering for a sandwich instead. Here, I can imagine I am in Kuala Lumpur, sweating from the spices, the broth, and the tropical heat, instead of trudging through another winter day in New York. I wasn't always a fan, but I have grown to love the stinky smells that permeate the restaurant- of simmering spices, boiling shellfish and fried little fish.

The curry mee with young tau foo which comes filled with vegetables stuffed with fish paste is wonderful and the ginger duck noodles is the perfect comfort food, the smell of ginger wafting from the dark meaty broth. The Nasi Lemak is a good rice dish when you want a little bit of everything. Here is the official description: Coconut rice flavored w. cloves & screw-pine leaves. Served w. chili anchovy, pickle, curry chicken w. bone and hard boiled egg.

Hacking away at multiple Hainanese chickens (above)

One of my favorites is the Hainanese chicken, delicately steamed and plated with a special soy sauce mixture. Sometimes, you will see almost every occupied table of the restaurant with one if not two orders of Hainanese chicken. I completely respect the fact that all the chicken here is served on the bone; no ninnies who eat pale, dry boneless chicken breast allowed. If you want to eat boneless meat, try the beef rendang- a very thick, tasty beef curry.

The best thing about Nyonya is that it keeps the food imagination alive. You can sit down 20 times there and still feel like there is unchartered territory. Where else can you get fish head soup in a carnation milk broth or curried red snapper with okra just steps away from Soho's bistro corridor? Or a seafood and pork cornucupia swimming in a gravy broth in the item listed as "clay pot noodles"?

Nyonya

194 Grand St.

New York, NY 10013

212-334-3669

Entrees - $4.50 - $20.50

Comments

[dee]

have you ever heard the excuse that "it's too much work" to suck meat off the bone? aayaaaaaa....pathetic! i don't know, is it an asian thing? i've never known a non-asian ordering extra skin.

[themaltesebacon]

I know, it's rather silly.

I volunteer Dan B. to eat with you if you want someone to eat extra pork fat with.

[dan levenson]

I love your blog! My next food destination is "fish head soup in a carnation milk broth." Then: Yucatan.

[laura max]

do they have my beloved roti canai here?

[The Maltese Bacon]

Thanks Dan! I hope you go.

Laura, yes they sure do.